Fond Doux

Rooms

The cottages are bright, airy and surrounded by foliage, with polished wooden floors, handmade four-poster beds, bamboo lights, an abundance of wooden shutters, and private terraces with rocking chairs. Technology is limited to a careful selection of gadgets, and a torch and candles indicate there may be an issue with power, but not during our visit. There's no air-conditioning, but there's no need for it either - all have ceiling fans and the plantation's lofty position helps catch the breeze.

Bathrooms have rain showers and clay basins decorated with smiling faces - slightly bizarre. You'll also find handmade soaps and seasonal fresh flowers from the plantation.

Of the 1-Bedroom Cottages, our favourites were Hilltop Coconut and Hilltop Guava Tree, each perched on a forested ridge amongst coconut trees. Their peaceful terraces have fantastic views, but break-neck steps to access, so be sure to book a garden-level room if vertigo is an issue. We stayed in Coconut and loved the colourful décor and tranquil setting. It's worth noting, though, that as the sun goes down, the evening chorus of the rainforest ignites. We found it mesmerising, but take earplugs if you're a light sleeper. On terra firma, Cinnamon is popular amongst honeymooners, but we liked the look of Bamboo with its white louvered windows and pretty patterned bedspread. Since our visit, a 1-Bedroom Cottage with Pool has been added, for a touch of extra luxury.

Of the 2-Bedroom Cottages, each of which has a kitchenette, Avocado is the most private, located at the end of a long path. Bamboo furniture and bright Caribbean décor make it both comfortable and colourful.

Deluxe 1-Bedroom Cottage Angelina is a 2-storey, 160-year-old yellow colonial house that feels slightly more tired than the others, but offers generous amounts of space and an extensive private garden - great for families. With the bathroom and kitchen located off an open walkway, it wouldn't suit those who prefer their amenities hermetically sealed.

We are yet to see the Honeymoon Suites, each of which is a self-contained 1-bed cottage nestled at the top of the hill with a private plunge pool on the veranda. We like the look of the secluded Tree House, hidden away in the foliage.

Features include:

• Minibar/fridge
• WiFi

Eating

There are 2 restaurants at Fond Doux, both offering Creole cuisine, and most of the fruit, herbs and vegetables are harvested on the plantation.

Breakfast is eaten in Cocoa Pod (once a pigpen!), where you choose from a continental / American menu, or the St Lucian menu of salt fish and salad, with cocoa tea. The raffia chairs are rather uncomfortable, and you need to watch out for cheeky birds eyeing your food, but the fresh grapefruit juice will be the sweetest you’ve ever tasted. You can also lunch at Cocoa Pod - a buffet of local and international dishes, such as fish curry and jerk chicken.

Dinner is taken in the Jardin Cacao, an open-sided bamboo construction where you're surrounded by candles, lanterns and greenery, and serenaded by the night chorus. The food is enthusiastic as opposed to masterful, but the à la carte menu offers plenty of choice such as baked red snapper with fresh herbs, golden plantation chips in a Creole dip, or Piton lamb rack marinated in local beer. As you might expect, cocoa is a regular feature on the menu (chocolate and onion soup, anyone?!) and the alarmingly named 'Volcanic Eruption' is a must-try dessert. Room service is also possible (just order from a menu in your cottage) and on Sundays there's a poolside BBQ.

If you were staying a week, you might find the menu limited, in which case there are a couple of popular restaurants, which the hotel can organise taxis to: The Mango Tree (great rotis) or Gee's (excellent seafood), both of which have sunset views of the Pitons.

The Deluxe 1-Bedroom Cottage and the 2-Bedroom Cottages have kitchenettes so you can self cater, too. Eroline owns a supermarket down the road and she can take you shopping or provide a starter pack. In terms of equipment you get a microwave, a stove, a fridge, a toaster, a kettle and a coffee maker.

Features include:

• Minibar/fridge
• Restaurant

Activities

• Absorb the quiet from a rocking chair on your private terrace, then stroll through tropical gardens to lounge by the cascading pools
  
• Take a complimentary tour of the plantation to learn about the cocoa-harvesting process
  
• Follow an on-site nature trail to see cocoa trees, crops (bananas, nutmeg, coffee, cinnamon), historic battle ruins and stupendous views. Signage was lacking on our visit, so double check the route before you set off
  
• Bird-watch in the gardens or from your room. Regular spots include St Lucia orioles, bananaquits and St Lucia pewees, and we had hummingbirds on our terrace - such a treat
  
• Book a treatment at the spa, named Mama La Terre ('Mother Earth'). All products are made from natural organic ingredients such as citrus, chocolate and mud from the sulphur springs
  
• Walk to St Lucia's famous 'drive-in' volcano and sulphur springs to enjoy a mud wrap (dark swimwear is advised!)
  
• Climb the mighty Pitons, a World Heritage site. You'll need a guide for Petit Piton, which is the steeper of the peaks
  
• Beach lovers can take the free hotel shuttle to Jalousie Beach (15 minutes away, with beautiful white sand) or ask local taxi driver Marcus to drive you to Anse Chastanet Beach (20 minutes away), where you'll find fantastic snorkelling
  
• Take a day trip: Castries (St Lucia's main city) has colourful markets and lovely seafront eateries; Anse le Raye and Canaries (aka Kanawe) are pretty fishing villages; Soufriere has botanical gardens, a Friday night jump-up (street festival) and a Saturday market
  
• Adrenaline junkies can charter a helicopter, zipline through the rainforest canopy, go scuba diving, head off horse riding, go whale and dolphin watching and hire mountain bikes from several nearby locations - enquire at reception

Activities on site or nearby include:

• Cycling
• Golf
• Hiking
• Horse riding
• Kayaking
• Nightlife
• Sailing
• Scuba diving
• Shopping / markets
• Snorkelling
• Wildlife

Kids

Fond Doux is very family-friendly and children under 12 stay for free.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

Each cottage can hold a baby cot. Families will need a 2-Bedroom Cottage (Cocoa Tree or Avocado); bigger families should opt for Deluxe 2-Bedroom Cottage Angelina, which can sleep up to 4 adults and 2 kids. You may find it tricky carrying toddlers up to the hilltop rooms and their patio's have a steep drop off; you would need to keep a watchful eye near the triple cascading pools (there's no life guard).

Cots Available, Extra Beds Available

For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection

Location

Fond Doux is located 3 miles south of the town of Soufriere along St Lucia's winding west coast road.

By Air:
Hewanorra International (26km away) in the south of the island is served by many airlines from the US and Europe. If you're arriving from another Caribbean island, you'll most likely fly into George FL Charles (formerly known as Vigie) near the capital city of Castries. Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.

From the Airport
Transfers can be arranged from either airport - the drive from both takes 1-1.5 hours. Enquire when booking.

By Car:
A car is the best way to explore the island and you may feel isolated without one.For car hire, see our car rental recommendations. You will need to obtain a temporary St Lucia driver’s licence purchased from the Immigration Office upon arrival at the airport or at the car-rental kiosks when you pick up your car. In addition you have to be over 25 years old and show a valid driver’s licence from home. A word of warning: whilst main roads are fine, they can be mountainous and bendy, so travel may take longer than you expect.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.

More on getting to St Lucia and getting around