Lovina Beach
Running from Temukus to Pemaron, the volcanic beach of Lovina is popular with visitors hoping to spot dolphins offshore. A hippie hangout in the 70s, today its upmarket hotels attract well-seasoned travellers. At the westerly lava outcrops, the sea is at its most ferocious: waves thunderclap onto the palm-fringed black sands. In the ‘calmer’ bays, gigantic rollers make for challenging surfing. Here, aloe vera, coconuts and cashews grow (one nut to a single flower), doe-eyed cattle graze on the clifftops, and duck herdsmen explain the secret of why their birds are happy to hang around ahead of being turned into bebek betutu. (And no, they don’t clip their wings: it’s smarter than that.)