Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef
near Exmouth, North West Cape, Australia
Guided shore snorkelling reveals black-tipped reef sharks, green, hawksbill and loggerhead turtles, and myriad temperate and tropical fish. Beyond the breakers, whale sharks and humpback whales chart an annual migratory passage, whilst elsewhere manta rays cruise the nutrient-rich coastal currents. Unforgettable.
Highs
- Location - Ningaloo is Australia’s largest fringing reef and the world’s only such coral community pitched a short swim from the mainland
- Staff - youthful, laid back but professional with it, eager to share their knowledge and enthusiasm for Cape Range’s wildlife and natural history
- Breakfast - enjoying fresh coffee and croissants whilst humpback whales breach a short distance offshore beats a full English
- Dinner - fine dining within earshot of the ocean, lit by oil lamps and overseen by a canopy of stars
- Some of the most comfortable beds on Earth
Lows
- Location - you are miles away from most anywhere (this also means no mobile reception)
- Fresh water - only 20L per tent per day for showering and washing
- Power - all electricity is generated by photovoltaic arrays whose extent is limited by national park regulations. No fans, air con, hairdryers or even power sockets in guest tents
- It’s a big cost up front, enough to make your eyes water, but it is all inclusive right down to an open bar
Best time to go
Our top tips
- Tented Eco-lodge
- 15 rooms
- All inclusive
- 5 and over welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- On the beach
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Binoculars
Rooms
There are 14 airy safari-style Wilderness Tents erected on raised timber platforms; those higher in the dunes are interconnected by boardwalks and offer better sea views. All have wooden decks of varying sizes populated by chairs and a hammock. There is also a Honeymoon Tent, which is more spacious and boasts a 4-poster bed draped in mosquito netting (more for ambiance than need as there are few mossies about). Careful distancing means all are comfortably private.
Inside, kingsize or twin beds have high-quality 100% cotton linen, a choice of pillows and extra cushions. Personally, save for being woken by kangaroos bouncing on the boardwalk, I had one of my best night’s sleep ever. There is some shelf storage and hanging space for clothes, but don't bring too much luggage.
Bathrooms adjoin each tent and include a surprisingly fragrance-free composting NatureLoo, together with a sink (with hot and cold running water) and electrically pumped, bottle gas-heated shower, both drawing from a 20-litre daily water allocation. Biodegradable shampoo, natural soaps and moisturisers are provided to further mitigate problems of waste water management in an environmentally sensitive area. Chilled drinking water is replenished each day.
Limited power inevitably means some compromises. There are no fans and the tents rely on large areas of fly-screened vents and a sea breeze to keep things cool. Elsewhere, energy efficient LED interior lights are a bit dim, though each tent is provided with a wind-up torch, and externally an oil storm lantern illuminates the deck.
For those wanting to further reduce the insulation between themselves and the environment and sleep under the stars, swags are available to pitch outside. However, be warned the starlight in Cape Range is so brilliant it might just keep you awake.
Eating
All meals and drinks are included with both lunch and dinner masterfully crafted by a professional kitchen team, which is fortunate because - short of going walkabout in search of choice bushtucker - there is simply nowhere else.
Lunch usually takes the form of a BBQ buffet, and can be served on the beach. A typical menu may include emu and herb sausage, pepper-crusted Scotch fillet, garlic and ginger roast potatoes and fruit salad.
Pre-dinner canapés are served around sunset before tables are beautifully set and lanterns lit for the main event in the dining tent. Starters and mains are thoughtfully paired with Australian and imported wines. The resident chef offers traditional Australian cooking with a twist by combining ingredients with native spice blends, bush tomatoes and Kakadu and Illawarra plums, amongst other indigenous flavours.
Naturally, seafood features heavily, and from scallops, squid and snapper, in almost all cases it’s straight off a boat at Exmouth. Surmounting the constraints of limited power, water and refrigeration, assiettes of prawns excel, ballantine chicken melts, wild berry soufflés rise to the occasion and lemon myrtle crème brulées linger in the memory.
Breakfast is an uncomplicated affair consisting of eggs any style, fresh croissants and cereals but the accompaniment of breaching humpback whales 500m offshore more than compensates for the simplicity.
Features include:
- Children's meals
Activities
- Ningaloo Reef is tantalisingly close and with snorkelling gear, flippers and rashies (protective swim shirts) all provided, escorted drift swims to observe the ever-changing drama of daily life among the coral are not to be missed
- Whale shark, humpback whale and manta ray encounters top the bill for this part of the WA coast, ask about swimming with whale sharks and humpbacks from Sal Salis' boat (seats 10, snorkelling gear & lunch included). Depending upon the season, expertly guided full-day charter voyages may be arranged at extra cost
- A guided hike through pristine natural bush ascends the escarpment of an ancient reef to offer panoramic views over the coastline, and returns through Mandu Mandu gorge, domain of agile Black-footed Rock Wallabies - you’ll probably have the place to yourself. Look out also for one of the 80 types of reptile in the Park, such as Gould's Goannas
- Sea Kayaking - a low impact way to explore the immediate coastline. Take snorkels and paddle to the Blue Lagoon where turtles, reef sharks and immense schools of fish share a favourite marine hang-out
- Birding is excellent hereabouts - there are 100 different species to be seen in the Cape Range National Park - look for Pied Butcherbirds, Fairy Wrens, Kestrels, Waders, Seabirds and the occasional Emu
- Yardie Creek is the only gorge in the region to contain permanent water and lies at the end of the road beyond Sal Salis. A short boat ride and even paths maintained by park authorities allow exploration even by those with mobility problems
- Sport fishing - the camp has a 12m Black Watch Game Fishing boat and skilled crew available for game charter on a catch and release basis (additional cost)
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Fishing
- Hiking
- Kayaking
- Snorkelling
- Wildlife
Kids
Children over 5 are welcome although there are no special child facilities. However, older kids, tweens and teens who are confident in the water and have a genuine interest in wildlife and wilderness will find the camp’s experience seminal. Extra beds take the form of good ol' Aussie swags.
Best for:
Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
Children will love the whole glamping experience in the eco-tents. Note that only one swag, so therefore only one child, is permitted per tent
Extra Beds Available
Children's meals:
The bar is open all day for cold drinks and snacks. The chefs are more than happy to take on board all requests and special requirements and cater accordingly with special menus if needed. Mealtimes are communal
Kids Activities on site:
- The beach
- Reference library
- Balls for beach games
- Board games
Kids Activities nearby:
- Snorkelling and kayaking on the Ningaloo Reef
- Gorge walks
- Beach fishing
- Glass-bottom boat trips, 25 minutes' drive
- Swimming with Whale Sharks and Humpback Whales (seasonal), best for confident swimmers and teens
- Dolphin and whale-watching (humpbacks), turtle spotting
- Guided walks
- Birdwatching
Distances:
- Airport: 20 minutes (Yardie Creek landing strip); 1hr30m (Exmouth Learmonth)
- Hospital: 1 hour
- Shops: 90 minutes (Exmouth)
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Sal Salis is set among the dunes of South Mandu Beach, overlooking Ningaloo Reef in Cape Range National Park, 1 hour / 65km south from the town of Exmouth, on the far western tip of Western Australia.
By Air:
International guests should fly into Perth or Broome. Qantas has regular flights from Perth to Exmouth Learmonth Airport (96km). (Learmonth Airport is a a joint RAAF and civilian facility.)
From the Airport
The lodge can arrange road transfers from Learmonth. There's also the option of a scenic air-transfer (taking in both Cape Range and Ningaloo Reef) from Learmonth to the nearby private landing strip at Yardie Creek, 20 minutes away (extra cost, and 10kg luggage limit per person).
By Car:
Most visitors pick up a rental car at Learmonth for the easy 2-hour drive to Sal Salis. Otherwise Perth to Sal Salis is a 13-hour, 1,320km drive.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape. More on getting to Australia and getting around
Airports:
- Learmonth Airport 98.0 km LEA
Other:
- Beach 0.1 km
- Shops 66.0 km
- Restaurant 66.0 km