Reviewed by
Tom Bell
While the tourists are down on the coast getting stuck in traffic, you’ll be up in the hills gliding serenely through blistering scenery, stopping to explore pretty villages, harvesting a picnic from local markets, then dropping down to the beaches on Lac de Sainte-Croix for lunch in the sun. Later, you’ll jump in a kayak and paddle into the awesome embrace of the Gorge du Verdon, and as you float along in silence with walls of rock soaring into the sky, you will wonder why you didn’t shun the tourists traps years ago. What’s more, if you have children in tow, they won’t be shouting for ice creams or complaining it’s too hot. On the contrary, they’ll be wide-eyed with wonder for this magical patch of unspoilt France.
As for this rather trendy guesthouse, it sits on the edge of a pretty village; a lovely market passes through twice a week. You’re surrounded by 200 olive trees and you can breakfast on your own patio or on the swimming pool terrace with the sun coming over the hills. Five big, contemporary suites have lots of style. Expect walk-in showers and bathrobes, comfy beds and iPod docks, then sofas inside and deckchairs on private terraces. Best of all are the friendly owners Cindy and Dieter. They know this land inside out and can guide you to its secrets. There’s a boules pitch in the garden, hammocks in the olive grove, an honesty bar on the terrace; you can even take home a bottle of their olive oil.
As for this rather trendy guesthouse, it sits on the edge of a pretty village; a lovely market passes through twice a week. You’re surrounded by 200 olive trees and you can breakfast on your own patio or on the swimming pool terrace with the sun coming over the hills. Five big, contemporary suites have lots of style. Expect walk-in showers and bathrobes, comfy beds and iPod docks, then sofas inside and deckchairs on private terraces. Best of all are the friendly owners Cindy and Dieter. They know this land inside out and can guide you to its secrets. There’s a boules pitch in the garden, hammocks in the olive grove, an honesty bar on the terrace; you can even take home a bottle of their olive oil.
Highs
- The swimming pool flanked by an olive grove – heaven in summer
- The Prestige Suite, with its private roof terrace, enormous bed and free-standing bath
- The truly amazing Gorge du Verdon – make sure you hire kayaks and paddle in
- The Lac de Sainte-Croix – launch your pedalo from one of its sandy beaches
- Popular with food and wine tourists, and perfect for romantic R&R, but families are very welcome, too
Lows
- It’s a little bit pricey in July and August, especially given you’re not in a tourist hotspot, and there's a 7-night minimum stay
- There are no meals provided here, but you can walk into Aups in less than 10 minutes, and each Suite has its own kitchen island for whipping up simple dishes
- If you're heading to the water, you'll need to bring your own beach towels or pay a small supplement to borrow them from the B&B
- Don’t expect the concierges services such as you find in a hotel
Best time to go
Alegria is open from April to mid October, with a 7-night minimum stay in high season. Although quite remote, some of the holidaymakers down on the coast do come up to investigate, more so in July and August, so book ahead in summer. The big Saturday market also pulls a crowd. We'd say April-June and September-October are the loveliest months.
Our top tips
Watch out for animals on the road. You’re up in the hills, they do things differently here! But seriously, it's not uncommon to come across shepherds herding 300 sheep down the road. It's quite some sight, too.