For years the tiny butterfly-shaped island of Favignana, off western Sicily, was a secret summer haunt for in-the-know Italians. But in recent years, a crop of newer villas and flights to nearby Trapani have attracted adventurous foreigners. For now, the island remains wonderfully peaceful; ferries dock at the horseshoe port amid bobbing wooden fishing boats and weekending yachts, the bright turquoise sea is backed by rugged rocks and arid hills.
Cas’almare is in a plum position, perched on a rocky headland near the main town, with stunning views across to the smaller island of Levanzo. Former fishermen’s cottages have been sensitively converted to offer four stylish rooms, there’s plenty of terrace space for sunset dinners, and a private stretch of sand is ideal for lounging. Sea-washed rocks lead into the clearest of waters; grab a mask and snorkel. Parisian owner-designer Sonia can rustle up a skippered speedboat, electric bikes or cannoli e cappuccino with equal ease. An idyllic spot for those seeking a romantic escape on a little-known island.
Highs
- We love the sun-drenched terrace, where meals are served overlooking watery views
- This pretty little island is small enough to explore by bicycle - the town is only a 5-minute ride away, with great restaurants too
- Some of the rooms have rolltop bathtubs with fabulous ocean views; one even has a private plunge pool
- With its stunning waterfront location and Zen-like calm, this is the perfect bolthole to unwind
Lows
- The coast is rocky, but Sonia has imported some blond sand for her 'beach club'
- There’s no hotel pool, but the sea is on your doorstep
- Hard to reach. Favignana doesn’t have an airport, but then again, that's half the point
- Summer brings quite a few yachts and speedboats popping over with holidaying Sicilians
- No kids under 10 allowed, a high for many!
Best time to go
The heat is pretty sweltering in July-August and the beaches can get rather crowded, so we think the best time to visit Favignana is in the spring (late April-May) and autumn (September-early October). Cas'almare is closed from mid-October to mid-April.
Our top tips
While it’s cheaper to hire a bike for local exploring, it’s hard work cycling in the summer heat: we recommend whizzing around on a scooter instead. Make sure you head into town for a pre-dinner drink; most bars offer ‘Happy Hour’ around this time, meaning complimentary tapas with your drink. It’s the perfect (beautiful) people-watching experience.
- Boutique Guesthouse
- 4 rooms
- Breakfast (+ other meals on request)
- Over 10s welcome
- Open all year
- Plunge Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Walk to beach
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Bicycles Available
Rooms
All four rooms look appealingly simple, with chic, uncluttered design focussing on natural materials - stone, wood and iron. Small decorative touches add warmth: glass candlesticks on the mantelpiece, fresh flowers on the table, Ingo Maurer lamps. You get air-conditioning, a flatscreen TV, a minibar/fridge, toiletries and fluffy bathrobes. Bathrooms are elegant, with ornate carved mirrors and, in many, amazing sunken stone bathtubs or vintage rolltops.
To keep cool, the Superior Room has an outdoor plunge pool on the ocean-view terrace. We stayed in a Deluxe Room: sheer romance, with polished wooden floors, a beautiful concave stone ceiling, and a free-standing rolltop bathtub looking out to Levanzo.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Minibar/fridge
- WiFi
Eating
A rustic continental breakfast is served on the terrace overlooking the ocean. As often in Italy, there are no cooked options, but there's a good selection of fresh fruit, homemade marmalades, natural yoghurt and cereals. Don't miss the chef’s finger-licking pastries and cakes - soft, doughy cornetti (croissants) or creamy cannoli (rolled pastry filled with ricotta, for which Sicily is renowned). Heaven with a rich cappuccino.
A daily menu of gourmet Sicilian dishes is available at lunch and dinner - think swordfish carpaccio, followed by seared tuna steak with red onion compote. Guests can head into Favignana town more more dining options: 5 minutes by bike or scooter, 10-15 on foot. The team speak highly of Ristorante Aegusa, which serves traditional food in a romantic, lit courtyard. The prices are reasonable and the caponata comes highly recommended. For delicious Sicilian desserts, head to La Pasticceria FC on Via Garibaldi.
Features include:
- Minibar/fridge
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- Chill out with a cool drink on one of the sun loungers at the private stretch of sand attached to the hotel
- Hire a scooter and zip across to one of the island's beaches and sculpted coves: Cala Rossa is famous for its dramatic rock formations
- Cycle into the island's pretty little town (5 minutes), with its 2 pedestrianised piazzas, surprisingly grand tuna fishery and charming evening passeggiata (Cas’almare can provide bike hire)
- While in town, book a dive trip : the crystal waters and caves off the island are part of a marine reserve, host to eels, starfish, sea urchins and parrotfish
- Saddle up for a donkey trip up Mount Santa Caterina to the ruined castle. The views are incredible, but choose your time carefully: late afternoon is best
- Sonia can arrange a skippered speedboat out to the islands of Marettimo and Levanzo for astonishing sea caves, rugged shorelines and bright fishing boats bobbing on turquoise waters
- Visit the island’s remarkable tufa quarries, where gardens and buildings have been fashioned out of the cavernous, subterranean interiors; Villa Margherita has an underground garden open to the public
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Cycling
- Fishing
- Scuba diving
- Snorkelling
- Yoga
Kids
Children over the age of 10 are welcome and some suites can take an extra bed. However, the hotel is best-suited to adults.
Best for:
Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
Extra Beds Available
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Favignana is the largest of the Egadi Islands, off Sicily's west coast.
By Air:
Favignana doesn’t have an airport, so fly into Trapani Birgi (20km) on Sicily, where you can then catch a bus to the town's port for a car ferry (45 minutes) or hydrofoil (20 minutes) to Favignana. Alternatively, Palermo (120km) is a 1.5-hour drive or bus journey from Trapani.
The easiest option is to have the hotel arrange a transfer through a local company (minibus + ferry / hydrofoil) from either airport, or if you’re feeling flush a helicopter transfer is available.
Getting Around
Favignana is a small island and you can get by using taxis or hiring a scooter or bike. If you want to hire a car on arrival in Sicily, remember, you'll need to pay to ferry it across to Favignana. There's free parking at Cas'almare.
Travel tips
If you choose to find your own way to Favignana, take a taxi from the port to the hotel: it’s not far, but the lack of road signs means walking can take longer than it should first time around.
Make sure you check sailing times and leave enough leeway to get back to the airport for your flight home; we suggest spending your last night on Sicily.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Sicily and getting around
Airports:
- Trapani Birgi 20.0 km TPS
- Palermo 120.0 km PMO
Other:
- Beach 0.5 km
- Shops 0.5 km
- Restaurant 0.5 km