Casas da Lapa Nature & Spa
Serra da Estrela, Mountain Beiras, Portugal
Constructed from old shepherd's cottages in 3 lawned tiers on the side of a terraced hill overlooking a swimming pool and courtyard, the hotel is perched above the village of Lapa dos Dinheiros ('Treasure Cave'), with fabulous views across the valleys and peaks. Inside you'll find light bedrooms with jacuzzi tubs, walls of rough stone and smooth whitewash, neutral modern colours. And after a day of trekking, cycling, village touring or river swimming, the sauna and steam bath will leave you in the pink. For those seeking contemporary comfort and delicious food in an unspoilt mountain retreat, this is a perfect find.
Highs
- Stylish modern interiors - unusual in such a rustic and remote location
- Cosy living rooms (firelit in winter, beautifully cool in summer) showcase local sculptures and paintings
- The sleek dining room and sunny poolside terrace offer the best in regional and home-grown cuisine
- 100,000 hectares of National Park on your doorstep
- A great place to escape with a loved one, with the family, or with a group of friends
Lows
- Access is tricky: from the A1 at Coimbra it's all country roads, which get narrower as you go up, especially when you reach the village itself
- Slightly rabbit-warren in construction; we found it a bit claustrophobic, though bedrooms are spacious
- It can be cold and misty up here at 750m altitude (though rarely in summer) and note that the higher 5 bedrooms all have exterior access
- We have yet to visit since the major recent renovations but they look fab!
Best time to go
Our top tips
- Boutique Hotel
- 15 rooms, 2 apts
- Restaurant open daily
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pools
- Spa
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
- Bicycles Available
- Laundry Service
- Library
Rooms
The 8 suites and 7 double bedrooms are similar in size and layout, and are arranged on 3 levels beside and above the swimming pool. Most of these have kingsized or twin beds and contemporary furnishings: cube armchairs, sleek cylindrical lamps, laminated bedwalls and eyecatching sculptures set into a series of small niches. All have great views to the mountains thanks to the big glass panels of their exterior doors.
The lowest two doubles are more traditional and have queensized beds with antique headboards. Up above these is a larger double bedroom, where there's plenty of space to slot in 2 additional single beds. These 3 rooms have the added advantage of interior access to a guest sitting room (in addition to that of the main house) with a televison and DVD: iPod docks are an added bonus.
Bathrooms are decorated in muted monochromes; stylish freestanding ceramic sinks are set on a generous sweep of black marble surface. You'll find a hairdryer, bathrobes, slippers, and a trayful of natural bath products sourced in Sicily; the jacuzzi tubs are perfect for a post-trek soak.
There are also 2 apartments, which are a great choice for families (although there are no twin beds), or people who want more privacy and independence. Set 300 metres from the hotel, they are contemporary in style with either 2 or 3 bedrooms, kitchenettes, sitting areas and a shared courtyard terrace and small swimming pool.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Minibar/fridge
Eating
Breakfast is served in a fab sleek dining room overlooking the lower swimming pool terrace. You're welcome to come down any time up to 1pm, in which case it could easily become brunch. Accompanied by the sounds of classical piano music, my buffet feast included a selection of cereals, excellent bread, a fruit salad, home-baked cakes, local honey, freshly-squeezed orange juice, ham, an excellent selection of tasty Beiras cheeses and natural yoghurt.
Light meals are available during the day, either inside or outside by the pool: expect fish salads, pizza, hamburgers, vegetable omelettes and pies.
Dinner is a 5-course event showcasing the seasonal products and typical flavours of the Serra da Estrela region.
If you want to eat out you will need to drive to Seia, 7km away, where most restaurants are of the rustic-regional sort: lots of lamb and smoked pork sausages as well as local sheep's cheese.
Features include:
- Children's meals
- Minibar/fridge
- Restaurant
Activities
- The National Park has a unique landscape of dramatic glacial valleys (geologists will be in their element!), powerful waterfalls, primitive forest of black oaks and chestnut trees, and granite outcrops. Reception can provide maps and recommend walks of varying levels of difficulty in the mountains - particularly lovely in spring and autumn. I only had time to accompany the owners on a short hike out from Lapa to a cave and waterfall but it left me in awe at the beauty of the Beiras National Park
- Guided 4-day walking tour Click for itinerary
- 4x4 drive tours can also be arranged, as can mountain biking - the hotel has its own bikes you can borrow
- The caves of Moura and Suma are worth visiting; you can try your hand at abseiling, or (in winter) go skiing at Portugal's only resort
- Near the village are no fewer than 8 fluvial beaches, where in summer you can swim in wonderfully invigorating pure mountain water, or relax under the trees in pristine natural scenery. The park is also the source of the rivers Mondego, Zezere and Alva
- Discover the stunning villages of Liñhares and Piódão, and the crumbling castles which dot the landscape
- Seia (7km) has a Park Visitor Centre, a Toy Museum and a Bread Museum, Gouveia a zoo, Belmonte a museum recalling the rich Jewish heritage and the local woollen industry
- Relax around Lapa's 11x4m swimming pool, or check out the steam room, gym, and sauna. You can book a massage too
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Cycling
- Hiking
- Skiing
Kids
Children are greeted with open arms at Casas da Lapa. Owners Nuno and Maria Manuel have a family of their own and have a genuinely caring attitude towards younger visitors. It is a long drive from the airport, but once you get here there is plenty to do for all the family and you won't have to bring much with you.
Best for:
Children (4-12 years)
Family friendly accommodation:
The 2 Superior Rooms and Suites 1, 2, 3 and 6 are suitable for 2 adults and 1-2 children. Cots are free but extra beds carry a charge.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available, Family Rooms
Babysitting:
Babysitting available, arrange in advance.
Baby equipment:
- Highchair
- Pram or pushchair to borrow
- Baby bedding
- Baby bath
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Children's meals:
Food is available on request, with special mealtimes for kids and half portions of adult mains on offer for dinner There is a small kitchenette with microwave and blender and baby bottles can be warmed.
Kids Activities on site:
- Kids DVDs
- Swimming pool
- Cinema room
Kids Activities nearby:
- Historical towns to visit
- River swimming
- Skiing and snowboarding in the winter
- Cycling
- Maria Manuel can recommend child-friendly walks
- Toy museum in Seia
- Zoo in Gouveia
Families Should Know:
The closest shop for nappies etc is a 10-minute drive away in Seia. Watch out for steep stone stairs and an unfenced pool.
Distances:
- Airport: 2 hours
- Hospital: 15 minutes
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Casas da Lapa is located in Lapa dos Dinheiros, a small village in the Natural Park of Serra da Estrela, the highest mountain in Portugal. It's about 300km northeast of Lisbon, in the central-east part of Portugal. The nearest city (Seia) is 7km away, the Spanish border is around 100km east.
Allow plenty of time for the journey to and from Lapa: you'll be driving through some stunning countryside and this area is far too beautiful to rush. Allow a little over 4 hours if arriving from Lisbon and about half that time from Porto. Bear in mind, too, that you could fly into Madrid and travel across to the Beiras from there, perhaps breaking journey in Salamanca which is about a 2-drive from Lapa.
By Air
Fly to Lisbon Portela (300km) or Oporto (175km). Lisbon is further away, but more carriers fly here. Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving both airports.
From the Airport
We'd recommend hiring a car (see below).
By Car
See our car rental recommendations.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com. More on getting to Portugal and getting around
Airports:
- Oporto 175.0 km OPO
- Lisbon Portela 150.0 km LIS
Other:
- Beach 150.0 km
- Shops 7.0 km
- Restaurant 7.0 km