I always assumed that the name ‘Milkwood’ was a figment of Dylan Thomas’ ale-oiled imagination. But, 10,000 miles away at the southern tip of Africa, I found myself in a forest of real milkwood, or sideroxylon imerme if you prefer: a low, shady, trunk-twisted canopy alive with chirping birds, crawling insects, elusive bushbuck and flowers even more colourful than Dylan’s seamy characters.
I was in Grootbos Private Nature Reserve; 2,500 hectares of coastal hillside owned and managed by the energetic Lutzeyer brothers, and an enthusiastic team of conservationists. Since they bought the property in 1991 they restored the original fynbos vegetation, banishing invasive plants and nurturing 100 bird and 30 mammal species, creating a rare botanical treasure trove. For humans, they built a Garden Lodge with 11 One- and Two-Bedroom Suites plus an additional 16 stylish suites at Forest Lodge, all hidden discreetly amongst the foliage. Both lodges are linked by pathways and a tunnel (no milkwood trees were harmed during the building!), and each has its own swimming pool and restaurant. As a base for nature trails, whale-watching and horse riding, or just a breath of fresh air between Cape Town and the Garden Route, it's unbeatable.
Highs
- The hidden setting on low, wooded hillsides - you don’t know it’s there until you arrive
- Secluded cottages with sitting rooms and spacious decks; great for families, and for those without children alike
- Pristine sandy beaches nearby, with prime southern right whale-watching from June-December. Plus various nature activities run by caring, qualified guides; most of which are included in the price
- If you want to learn about the world's smallest and most diverse floral kingdom, this is the place to stay
- Excellent eco credentials, this is a carbon negative reserve so no food is sourced from more than 30 miles away and much is grown on site; most staff are graduates of the in-house hospitality academy
Lows
- Although Grootbos is located in its own nature reserve, don't expect serious game viewing (except for the world’s biggest mammal, the whale, of course) - for this you will need to go to the Eastern Cape or further afield
- It's not cheap, but meals and many activities are included in the price, so we think it's still great value
Best time to go
Every season has its benefits: June-December is prime whale-watching time (they mate off Walkers Bay, and calve in October-November), August-November is best for spring flowers. December-March is summer: warm, sunny and busy (but the sea is still cold). April-June is autumn, a quiet time with good bird and animal viewing.
Our top tips
As you can see from our Activities page, there is lots to do! If you enjoy nature-watching in all its forms, stay for 5-6 nights; if you feel like a sampler and a chance to unwind, stay for 3-4; and if you are basically stopping over on your way to the Garden Route, then stay for 2 nights (the minimum).
- Luxury Lodge
- 27 bedrooms
- All meals included
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
- Bicycles Available
- Laundry Service
Rooms
Grootbos is two lodges in one; each has its own decorative style, as well as its own restaurant and pool area.
The original Garden Lodge suites are wooden mini-cottages hidden amongst the milkwood trees, and part-raised above the ground so you can see through rustling branches to the sea. The One-Bedroom Luxury Suites have a sitting room, a shower room and an outdoor deck or small garden area with slatted chairs and sunloungers. Half-glassed walls keep the interiors bright and sunny, and allow you to bird-watch from the lounge. Fittings are modern: twin washbasins, heated towel rails, extra-long beds, electric kettles and a wood-burning stove for winter stays. Some have the added bonus of a bathtub. A few traditional touches have been included such as mahogany bowls holding enormous ostrich eggs, overall the feeling is contemporary chalet style. There are also 4 Two-Bedroom Luxury Suites; considerably larger at 120 sq.m and each with 2 ensuite bathrooms.
If you like stylish design, then book one of the 16 One-Bedroom Luxury Suites in the newer Forest Lodge. Expect clean white walls, spotlit eaves and chunky wooden furniture with a white-red colour scheme. There's a living room which opens onto a private wooden deck with sweeping views across the fynbos gardens. Bedrooms boast extra-length beds with down duvets, heated blankets and cotton linen; airy bathrooms have either a bathtub/shower or a double shower. There are also 2 Honeymoon Suites with private plunge pools.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Minibar/fridge
- WiFi
Eating
Up at the thatched restaurant-bar, a grinning waiter serves colourful juices to sun-browned guests on the terrace, another prepares cocktails at the bar, a third carefully lays delicate wineglasses and fanned cloth napkins on the dinner tables which radiate around a central wooden beam in the circular dining area.
Dishes include ovenbaked brinjal, tomato confit, mozzarella strudel, peanut satay marinated breast of duck, buttermilk omelette risolle with poached pears... and vanilla ice cream to finish off. Forget darkest Africa, this is more like a gourmet Parisian eatery, just one where most of the food is grown on site (nothing comes from more than 30 miles away). The wine list, too, is a credit to the southern hemisphere. The 5-course dinner menu is set, but specific requests can be catered for with advance warning. The same menu is offered in both restaurants and guests can choose which they would like to dine in. You can also dine in a lantern-lit setting in the 1000-year-old forest.
At lunchtime, a choice of a 3-course meal or a light sandwich-and-salad menu is offered, and breakfast is a rich buffet with the additional option of a hot English breakfast menu.
Features include:
- Children's meals
- Minibar/fridge
- Restaurant
Activities
- Take a guided walk through the milkwood forest and learn about buzz pollination, airborne pheromones and the fragrant confetti bushes used as hand wipes by local fishermen
- Go horse riding with a qualified instructor through the fynbos or along the beach
- Sit and bird watch from your terrace (borrow binoculars from reception): over 100 species to tick off, including yellow-billed kite and black harrier
- Marvel at the exotic flowers (best from July-October) - over 760 species including the improbably red and spherical scadoxes
- Walk along the endless, sandy shores of Walker Bay below the hotel - but don’t expect a long swim, it is chilly!
- Explore the surrounding hills on a 4x4 jeep excursion; or drive to Klipgat Cave on the coast to explore its Stone Age artefacts
- Go whale-watching (June-December) for a close view of southern rights; or spot them from Grootbos’ deckhouse telescopes, sipping champagne
- Take a boat trip to Dyer Island to see the seal and penguin colonies (January-May only)
- Drive to Cape Agulhas, Africa’s southernmost point, via Danger Point Lighthouse, with its history exhibition
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Cycling
- Hiking
- Horse riding
- Scuba diving
- Surfing
- Wildlife
- Wine tasting
Kids
The Garden Lodge welcomes children of all ages, while the Forest Lodge can only accommodate children over 12 years.
Families with adventurous children will love it here given the exciting activities on offer, the long deserted sandy beaches, whale-watching and horse riding. Staff put in a lot of effort making sure the children have a good time, with snacks and refreshments available for them plus treasure hunts and guided walks. And, the reserve is tame so kids can run wild without parental heart attacks.
Children up to age of 4 stay free in their parent's room (cots provided); 4-16 years sharing a room will receive a discount. Maximum of 2 children between 4-10 years and maximum of 1 child between 11-16 years. Children with their own bedroom are charged at full adult rate.
Best for:
All ages
Family friendly accommodation:
Families with with 2 children under 12 should book a One-Bedroom Luxury Suite at the Garden Lodge. Two-Bedroom Luxury Suites (Garden Lodge) sleep 2 adults and up to 3 children. One-Bedroom Luxury Suites in the Forest Lodge can sleep 4, but can only accomodate children over 12 years. Children will get a kick out of outdoor showers and window-side baths.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available
Babysitting:
There is a babysitting service (on request) if you want to go off on a boat trip/horse ride etc
Baby equipment:
- Baby cot
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Children's meals:
There are special kids' menus, and refreshments and snacks are regularly laid out for younger guests. You'll also have a well stocked fridge in your kitchenette, and fresh fruit delivered daily. Fire-baked pizzas are always popular!
Kids Activities on site:
- 2 swimming pools
- Playground (Garden Lodge)
- A domestic pig, plus ducks, bunnies and hens
- Treasure hunts and guided walks around the grounds
- Bike the fynbos
- Picnics
- Plant a tree with the family's name on it, an invitation to return to see how it has grown!
Kids Activities nearby:
- Horse riding
- Whale-watching June-December (humpback and Southern Right)
- 4X4 jeep safaris
- Walker Bay beach is nearby
- Exploring caves
Families Should Know:
The pools aren't fenced.
Distances:
- Airport: 2 hours, or 20 minutes by helicopter
- Hospital: 40 minutes
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Grootbos Private Nature Reserve is 145km south east of Cape Town, near Hermanus in South Africa.
By Air
Cape Town International (145km) is the closest airport. Flights take 11-13 hours from Europe, but there's no jetlag! Click on the links below for a list of airlines.
From the Airport
It is a 2-hour drive along good tarred roads, heading east via Hermanus. The hotel can arrange a taxi transfer or even a 20-minute helicopter transfer!
By Car
Most people will hire a car - see our car rental recommendations.
Detailed directions will be provided when booking is confirmed.
More on getting to South Africa and getting around.
Airports:
- Cape Town International 145.0 km CPT
Other:
- Beach 3.0 km
- Shops 10.0 km
- Restaurant 10.0 km