Sri Lanka’s east coast remains blissfully untouristy, and at Kalkudah Beach, the Crusoe-lifestyle still lives on. Its 12km golden-sand shoreline is fringed by coconut plantations, palmyrah trees and cashew groves, and at the time of writing, Karpaha is the only luxury tented camp on this stretch of the bay. Blending organically into the natural surroundings, this tented resort is low-key but extremely stylish, with contemporary furnishings and open-air showers; glamping at its very best.
The 17 double and family tents sprinkle the peaceful sandy grounds while an infinity pool, a garden spa and double-storey restaurant and bar sit side-by-side on the beachfront with superb ocean panoramas. Chic furnishings and décor have either been custom designed or sourced from Bali and Thailand and really stand out for their on-trend style. Art features strongly, too: in amongst the lush landscaped gardens, there’s a giant yellow gorilla sculpture, and metalwork figures lounge around, contemplating the unspoilt ocean views. The beach itself is the preserve of local fishermen, who practise the traditional craft of net casting, which is fascinating to watch. Stroll along the sand, snooze by the pool: this is a place to switch off and do very little.
Highs
- A hidden paradise: currently the only tented camp along this near-deserted length of beach
- The sea is gorgeous for swimming all year round, warm and calm, especially in the dry season (Jan-Sept)
- The tents are incredible – superbly styled, spacious and comfortable, with kingsize beds, double-ended bathtubs and beautiful outdoor showers
- A massive infinity pool and comfortable mattress-topped sunloungers
- Starlit evening meals: we loved the traditional curries, and super-fresh seafood
Lows
- Staff are excellent but some have limited English. However, we're sure this will quickly improve
- No alcohol license but you can bring your own drinks and the corkage is free. Shops and other restaurants are 9km away
- It's a long slog from Sri Lanka's main airport (Colombo, 7 hrs), but catching an internal flight to Batticaloa Airport is an option (1 hr from hotel)
Best time to go
The dry season, between January and September, is when the east coast is at its best. The weather is fine, hot and dry, and the sea is at its calmest. It can be slightly choppy October-December but is still swimmable. Watersports in Passikudah are best in the dry season, too, and some activities – such as coastal cruising and diving – only operate May-September.
Our top tips
From Passikudah you can board a luxury catamaran for 3-hour morning or afternoon cruises around the bay. There are stops for swimming, and their stylish boats are equipped with snorkelling equipment and SUPs (stand-up paddleboards). Light snacks and drinks are served, and this is a super way to get out on the water and see a little more of this barely explored coastline.
- Boutique Resort
- 17 rooms
- Restaurant and bar (open daily)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa
- On the beach
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Bicycles Available
Rooms
The 17 suites are housed in well-designed South African tents. There are 3 versions – beachfront Palam Suites; garden-wrapped Kolaya Suites; and larger Seed Suites, which sleep up to 5 in 2 ensuite bedrooms (1 double, 1 twin + an extra bed).
Interiors are similar throughout. Timber floors, honey-coloured furnishings and kingsized beds, plus cushions illustrated with photographs of local life and beachscapes. The open-plan bathrooms have free-standing tubs and a private walled courtyard with a waterfall shower for open-air bathing. Despite the fact you're camping, there are safes, portable speakers, tea/coffee making facilities and mini fridges. Tents are mosquito-proofed and have side panels that can be rolled up for air circulation. There are ceiling fans as well as air-conditioning units, which, given the tents’ canvas structure, worked surprisingly well.
From our Palam Suite we could lie back in bed and savour 180-degree ocean panoramas and the sunrise. However, these suites aren’t as private as the garden-based Kolaya Suites, so it just depends which you prefer - privacy or sea views.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Minibar/fridge
- WiFi
Eating
Sourcing ingredients in this remote region of Sri Lanka is a real challenge, but the hotel manages to offer a wide-ranging menu of international cuisine. Fresh fish and seafood feature highly, particularly local tuna which is crafted into tuna niçoise salads, tuna tartare and nigiri sushi. The open-sided first-floor restaurant makes the most of the panoramic coastal views, and its protruding balcony is a superb spot for starlit evening meals.
The menu was in its testing stage on our visit, and some dishes stood out more than others. The traditional rice and curries (particularly the crab curry) was very good as were the homemade pizzas, the spaghetti bolognaise and the beetroot, feta and walnut salad. We also liked the homemade profiteroles.
For a change of scene, the nearest restaurants are in Passikudah, a 30-minute drive away; this is a well-developed bay home to a number of high-end resort-style hotels.
Features include:
- Children's meals
- Minibar/fridge
- Restaurant
Activities
- Walk - the beach stretches for miles and is mostly deserted except for fishermen who tirelessly cast their vast nets into the sea
- Relax! This coastal setting is extremely tranquil and encourages you to put your feet up, bathe in the warm ocean and absorb this rare serenity
- There are body boards to borrow, as well as bikes to explore the region
- Be indulged at the twin-roomed spa, which is set in serene garden surroundings
- For coastal cruising, kayaking and jet skiing, make for Passikudah (30 minutes away), which is the east coast’s watersports hub
- For culture, head into Batticaloa, a refreshingly sedate Tamil town ringed by lagoons that’s home to a handful of colonial sights
- Or day trip to Polonnaruwa (1.5 hours), a 12th-century World Heritage Site
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Cycling
- Kayaking
- Surfing
Kids
Families are very welcome and we saw several enjoying the property on our most recent visit. Note there are no lifeguards or specific organised family activities but there's lots to do. There's plenty of sandy space to roam, a wonderful infinity pool, and the sea is flat, calm and safe for swimming, especially Jan-Sept.
Best for:
All ages
Family friendly accommodation:
All tented suites can accommodate additional kids. You can either add a baby cot and the sofa bed, or have an extra bed added to the sofa bed. The Kolaya Suites are the most suitable for small families as they have enclosed plant-walled gardens which are good for containing roaming children. The Seed Suites, which are also surrounded by private gardens, have 2 bedrooms and can sleep up to 6.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available, Family Rooms
Baby equipment:
- Baby cots
- High chairs
- Potties
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Children's meals:
The kitchen can whip up kid-friendly meals at any time of day, including western dishes (there are spring rolls, noodles and fried rice on offer too), as well as snacks and fruit ice lollies.
Kids Activities on site:
- Main infinity pool with shallow steps and shelf
- Toddler pool
- Library room with games, books, toys and DVDs
- Volleyball court
- Petanque
- Cinema under the stars
- Bikes to borrow
Kids Activities nearby:
- Watersports such as kayaking, banana boating, jet skiing, snorkelling and SUP (stand-up paddleboarding) in nearby Passikudah
- Boat trips
- Pottery school
- Horse riding
- Mask painting
Families Should Know:
The main infinity pool is unfenced, with a a step all along the edge. There are no lifeguards on the beach
Distances:
- Airport: 40 mins' drive (Batticaloa); 6 hours (Colombo)
- Hospital: 30km
- Shop: 4km
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
The hotel is located on Kalkudah Beach, 9km from watersports capital Passikudah, on Sri Lanka’s east coast.
By Air:
Colombo Bandaranaike is the closest international airport (266km), but it's a good 7-hour drive away so an alternative is to fly with domestic airline Cinnamon Air to Batticaloa Airport, an hour’s drive from the hotel.
Getting Around:
If you don’t have your own transport, the hotel can arrange transfers from the airport, and tuk-tuks for local travel.
If you want to hire a car and driver for your whole holiday, enquire through our Tailormade Tour Operator; they can collect you at Colombo airport when you land, drive you to the hotel, then drive you to your onward destination(s) after your stay, as well as taking you on all day trips etc.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Colombo Bandaranaike International 266.0 km CMB
- Batticaloa 30.0 km BTC
Other:
- Beach 0.1 km
- Shops 4.0 km
- Restaurant 4.0 km