With its rich history of Baroque churches and sculptures, and its proximity to awe-inspiring Mount Vesuvius and Pompeii, Naples makes a fantastic city break. However there aren't many truly boutique hotels. But hidden away on the second floor of a traditional palazzo, Micalò ArtRooms is a one off. An intimate guesthouse in the trendy Chiaia Riviera, it has a clutch of welcoming and spacious rooms. Duplex bedrooms with soaring ceilings and tall French doors are furnished with white Trani limestone; above, reached via stone steps and steel balustrades, hover modern mezzanine-level bathrooms. Since our visit, Lifestyle Hotel group has taken over daily operations from original British owner Michelle Lowe, who worked with an Italian architect to maximize space and create a haven from hot and hectic Naples.
Three of the rooms have sea views, as does the cute Art Bar, a homage to Naples' budding modern art scene. With designer shops and excellent restaurants close by, it's a strong contender for a short city break dedicated to shopping and sampling Italian cuisine, or as part of a longer trip taking in the Amalfi coast.
Highs
- Directly opposite the sea, where you can stroll to lots of lovely bars and restaurants. It's also just a 10-minute walk to Mergallina station, perfect for exploring the rest of the city
- Spacious rooms in an area where these are hard to come by, and an injection of cool through the funky art by young, local artists
- Handily located next to the port for trips Sorrento and the islands of Ischia and Capri
- Manager Giovanna's Napoli knowledge is second to none - her hosting skills are lauded in recent feedback
Lows
- The stairs up to the mezzanine-level bathrooms can be tricky to negotiate in the middle of the night (or for little ones)
- The lack of any outdoor space might niggle, though you overlook the Villa Comunale park
- In addition to nearby busy roads, there's a metro station directly opposite that's in the final stages of construction
- There is no 24hr reception
Best time to go
Early summer (May - June) and autumn (September - October) are good times to visit Naples. In July and August, it's very hot and most of the city closes down.
Our top tips
Two or three days are perfect for an introduction to Naples, either as a stand-alone city break or combined with a few days exploring the Amalfi coast. Fans of Eat, Pray, Love (and world-renowned pizza) should seek out L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele, where Julia Roberts famously feasts in the movie.
- Boutique B&B
- 8 rooms
- Breakfast only (+ walk to restaurants)
- Welcome but not ideal
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Walk to beach
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Concierge Service
Rooms
Somewhat suprisingly, there are eight rooms tucked inside, and the double height ceilings mean they all feel light and airy.
Sea View Rooms rooms are brighter, with gorgeous views past the palms of the Villa Comunale park to the sparkling Mediterranean - on a clear day you can see Capri. These rooms do face the busy roads, but noise is minimised through clever blinds. However, if you are a light sleeper and want to avoid traffic noise completely, go for a Classic room. These overlook the courtyard of the palazzo and are quieter. The rooms are duplex in design, with a kingsize bed downstairs and a large bathroom upstairs, overlooking the rooms through an internal window.
There's also a two-bedroom Family Room - best for older kids.
The owner's eye for design and determination to use natural materials - from stone and marble to linen and wood - means that everything blends together well. Top quality Italian bathroom fittings and a splash of local art adds sophistication.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Minibar/fridge
- WiFi
Eating
Micalò ArtRooms has a funky little bar/dining room, the Art Bar, the only communal space in the hotel, where you take breakfast, coffee in the afternoon, or a cocktail in the evening. Its walls are lined with paintings and clever sculptures dotted around the room.
The simple breakfast starts with a coffee and a cartons of juice, accompanied by a choice of breads, pastries, jams, boiled eggs, cereal, fresh fruit or muesli. You could also spend a sunny morning taking coffee and sweet pastries at a local cafe.
For other meals, there are plenty of good restaurants within walking distance. Of course, Naples is famous for its pizza, and we visited an excellent pizzeria nearby, packed with Neapolitans: Ciro a Mergellina on Via Mergellina. Staff can direct you to many different places for lunch or dinner.
Features include:
- Minibar/fridge
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- Shopping: both designer labels and more interesting independent boutiques can be found within 10 minutes' walk of the guesthouse
- The ferry port is a short walk away for celeb-spotting boat-trips to the islands of Ischia and Capri; or hotel staff can arrange a bespoke day-tour of the Bay of Naples in a traditional wooden gozzo (best for groups of four)
- There are several smartly furnished beaches across the roads, about 10 minutes' walk away, where, for a small fee, you can chill out on sunloungers or beach bars on the dark volcanic sand
- Naples is a big and bustling city full of museums and galleries, laundry-laden alleyways, Baroque churches, hilltop monasteries and grand piazzas; if you want to explore it properly, hire a scooter through reception, and ask about the funicular
- About 30 mins by either train or car, the preserved cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum are a must-see, giving an extraordinarily detailed insight into the life of a city at the height of the Roman Empire
- From either of these, you can drive up to the base of Mt. Vesuvius, whose eruption destroyed the cities in AD 79, and (weather permitting) climb to the summit crater (45 mins)
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Nightlife
- Shopping / markets
Kids
Though they are welcome, it's not really a place for children. The peaceful atmosphere, lack of any outdoor space and steep in-room staircases would make a stay with young children impossible. Older children would probably need somewhere to let off a bit of steam, too. That said, there is a park opposite, which has two playgrounds.
Family friendly accommodation:
If you do want to take the chance, the Family Room sleeps two adults and two children. It has a double bedroom, a single sofa bed, and can accommodate an additional bed if needed.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available, Family Rooms
Baby equipment:
Baby cots are available on request.
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Micalò ArtRooms is in the Chiaia Riviera area of Naples. It is close to Mergellina, Naples' second port, on a smaller road running parallel to the Via Francesco Caracciolo.
By Air:
Naples Capodichino (10km) is the nearest. Take a taxi from here, or ask the hotel to book a private transfer for you. Driving into central Naples is definitely not easy, while public transport from the airport is quite slow and complex.
By Car:
If you plan a longer trip taking in the Amalfi Coast, you may want to hire a car. Note that there is no parking at the guesthouse and you will need to park your car in a nearby public car park, which is not cheap.
By Train:
The Eurostar arrives at Mergellina train station (5 min walk away) from Rome, see Seat 61 for more details.
Detailed directions will be sent to you once your booking is confirmed.
Read our guide to Getting to Italy and Getting around
Airports:
- Naples - Capodichino 10.0 km NAP
Other:
- Beach 0.3 km
- Shops 0.3 km
- Restaurant 0.3 km