The further north along the coast from Kuta the more upmarket the hotels become. So we fell upon stylish, spotless and perfectly located yet sensibly priced Puri Madawi with glee. Lumbung-style, set in an ordinary little lane in Petitenget, just north of trendy Seminyak and Legian, with cows grazing and a Balinese family going about its business, it's a 5-minute walk to a wide, sandy beach.
It’s hip Austrian hotelier Daniel Kornfeld’s baby: one of those 'I loved the land so much I bought it' stories. He and his brother designed and built the 16-roomed hotel and marble swimming pool from scratch. Every detail - from poinsettia trees in the landscaped gardens to ecologically-sound fabrics in the cleverly designed suites - has been chosen to give an upbeat, Balinese feel and plenty of good karma. You're just a taxi-ride to both Eat Street (which speaks for itself) and Jalan Double Six (which rocks from midnight until the last celebrity DJ plays her final cut). Puri Madawi provides the perfect recovery retreat for you to emerge refreshed to face the clubs and bars again.
Highs
- The Indian Ocean’s a stroll away and there’s great food, bars, clubs, shops, markets and spas within a short taxi hop, yet this has a semi-rural feel
- Top value spotless rooms designed with a sharp eye for detail that outclass any other budget accommodation we’ve found in Bali
- Restorative, colourful gardens with comfy poolside loungers for relaxing in after a hard night’s partying
- Decent breakfasts at the poolside restaurant; drinks (and informal Bahasa Indonesia lessons) at the bar
Lows
- There’s building work in the area; though it’s far enough from Puri Madawi to be unaware of it, there are ugly fences around the construction site
- Steep steps on the path are tricky for those less agile or with kids
- You’ll need taxis (which are cheap and plentiful) to get anywhere other than the beach and the eateries at the northern end of Seminyak/Legian
- Apart from breakfast, the cooking is enthusiastic but amateurish; fortunately, some of the best new restaurants in Bali are just down the road
Best time to go
The Petitenget/Kerobokan area in Bali doesn’t have a season but in general Bali's drier months are May - September. If you’re on a budget though, head out before July to make the most of low prices in the shops and markets.
Our top tips
Hire a car - with or without a driver - and take a trip to see Tanah Lot: Bali’s most recognisable island temple, built off the coast on a small rock formation.
- Boutique Guesthouse
- 16 rooms
- Breakfast (+ restaurants nearby)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Walk to beach
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
Rooms
Puri Madawi has just 16 suites and bungalows. The Suites are built in traditional lumbungs (2-storey houses roofed in alang-alang), clustered around the pool. The style is most definitely Balinese: the decor, vibrant; the scents, spicy.
If you’re on a budget, you’re not settling for second best if you opt for one of the Garden Bungalows: the lovely big bedrooms have windows along the whole of one curved wall, traditional carved doors lead out into romantic private garden shower-rooms. You’ll have every right to feel smug: quite simply, they’re the best and most stylish budget rooms we’ve found in Bali.
The two-storey Suites have their own brightly-painted sitting rooms open to the gardens, giving a friendly, community feel. Terrazzo floors, occasional tables, urns and fresh flowers give the individual spaces their cosiness, while wood carvings and garish paintings add a quirky personality. Inside, at mezzanine level, you’ll find a small but adequate marble bathroom. The bedroom is upstairs, and for a few dollars more you can have one of the larger Extra Suites, which has an Asian-style lounging area with floor cushions and a low table.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Minibar/fridge
- WiFi
Eating
The open-sided dining pavilion is between the pool and the gardens. Built as a giant version of a traditional Balinese balé, the restaurant opens in time for early risers and closes only when the last person at the bar says goodnight.
For breakfast, eat your fill of scrumptious fresh croissants (they’re brought in from top Balinese patisserie, Le Bake), fresh fruit, yoghurt, freshly squeezed orange juice and pancakes or eggs with bacon, ham, tomatoes or sausages. The coffee is Balinese (and can sometimes be a tad grainy) even in the cafetiere.
Snacks through the day are on the safe side: nasi goreng, lumpia, club sandwiches and chef’s salads, with a couple of Austrian specialities such as Fiaker Gulasch thrown in. Though the restaurant’s not going to make Puri Madawi famous, there’s enough on the menu to tide you over from one food-fest at a swanky Petitenget/Seminyak eatery to the next. Some of Bali's best restaurants are just a few minutes away by taxi.
Features include:
- Minibar/fridge
- Restaurant
Activities
- If you’re up for an adrenaline rush - there’s good surfing, sailing and fishing in the bay
- If you fancy something calmer, paddle, build sandcastles and dig channels in the soft clean sand at Petitenget; race to the beach for photo opportunities of volcanic sunsets
- Hack through rice padis or along the beach on horseback - there’s an excellent local stable nearby with friendly and cared-for ponies
- Attend an exuberant, colourful Hindu ceremony on the beach, when offerings are placed in the waves
- Indulge in beauty treatments at the most indulgent (or kitsch) of the local spas
- Head down to KuDeTa to sip gobsmackingly expensive cocktails beachside with the party set
- Salsa at Bahiana, check out the live gigs at Kama Sutra, get caught up with the international guest DJs on the decks at any one of a score of trendy nightspots
- Recover from last night by taking a dip in Puri Madawi’s exquisitely warm pool
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Cycling
- Golf
- Horse riding
- Nightlife
- Sailing
- Shopping / markets
- Surfing
Kids
Children are welcome in the Extra Suites; staff are happy to mind your baby, or the owner Daniel will help find a professional babysitter.
Best for:
Babies (0-1 years), Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available
Babysitting:
Babysitting available by arrangement
Baby equipment:
Baby cots available on request.
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Puri Madawi is situated in Petitenge, which is part of the larger area known as Kerobokan. It lies just north of Seminyak, Legian and Kuta, and is a 30-minute drive from Denpasar airport.
By Air:
Denpasar Ngurah Rai (13km) is served by many international airlines. Please click on the links below for further information.
From the Airport
The hotel offers a transfer from the airport, which we'd recommend taking - see Rates for details.
By Ferry:
There are frequent boats between Bali and the major islands in Indonesia, including Java, Lombok and Komodo. You can then catch a bemo (minibus) from the port to Kerobokan, or take a taxi directly to the hotel.
By Car:
We don’t recommend renting a car unless you’re a very seasoned visitor to Bali as some of the on-the-spot fines for ‘traffic violations’ can be annoying. Narrow roads and overtaking procedures can also be unnerving.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Bali and getting around
Airports:
- Denpasar Ngurah Rai 13.0 km DPS
Other:
- Beach 0.3 km
- Shops 1.0 km
- Restaurant 5.0 km