Cambiocavallo

Rooms

The suites, up a flight of steps on the first floor of the main house, have minimalist four-poster beds in oak-wenge, laid with white sheets and perhaps the most comfortable pillows in Sicily, set at a stylish diagonal.

The rooms, in the former stables, have the same pillows and similarly stylish double or twin beds, with an altar-like table that slides up for anyone who wants breakfast in bed. Wardrobes are open with hanging canvas shelves, the idea being that guests can see instantly whether or not they have left anything behind. Ceilings are made of oak beams and bamboo, traditional in this part of Sicily. Sliding glass doors open onto terraces decked with iroco wood and roofed with bamboo, looking out over the palms and orange trees of the geometric garden to the limestone-fringed pool. Room 3 - the largest - is adapted for disabled guests.

Bathrooms, with fittings by Dolomite, have floors of pietra pece, a locally found limestone that is the colour of dark chocolate and streaked with gold. The suites have air-blown Jacuzzis, rooms 1 and 2 have baths, and the others have large square-headed showers.

We loved the décor and slept very well, but there were a couple of minor niggles: the eye-socket taps, into which you have to insert your thumb and swivel, are tricky to operate and may result in an inadvertent shower; and there was a clicking sound in our bathroom all through the night.

Features include:

• Air conditioning

Eating

Breakfast is exquisitely styled on a high raspberry-red table set with mink and taupe linen, so the poor choice of fruit, supermarket cakes and frozen croissants comes as something of a disappointment in a region famed for its patisserie and orchards. There are, however, delicious Ragusana cheeses for those who like a savoury breakfast, as well as sliced bread ready to toast, local honey (for which the nearby Hyblaean hills are famous), 3 kinds of jam, and sliced hams and salamis.

The snack and light lunch menu largely consists of pasta dishes, salads, and sandwiches like toasted ham and cheese, plus fruit, cakes, salami and cheese. You're also welcome to stock up on local fruit, cheeses and cold cuts and take a picnic lunch on your terrace.

Dinner is available if requested in advance (at breakfast or before arrival), expect a simple, daily changing menu of meat and fish dishes, with ingredients being largely seasonal and sourced locally.

Otherwise you should be prepared to drive to Pozzallo (about 10 minutes) or Modica (20 minutes), or one of the other nearby towns. Recommended restaurants include Torre d'Oriente and the rustic Osteria dei Sapori Perduti in Modica, Michelin-starred Duomo and Locanda Don Serafino in Ragusa, La Giara in Portopalo, Taverna La Cialoma in Marzamemi, and Crocifisso in Noto.

Activities

• Visit the Unesco-listed Baroque towns of Modica, Ragusa, Noto, Ispica and Scicli, all within about half an hour's drive; the cathedral at Noto was recently and beautifully restored, with the help of Cambiocavallo's architect owners
  
  
• Laze on sandy beaches such as 12km-long Santa Maria del Focallo near Ispica or one of the 2 Blue Flag beaches near Pozzallo (don't plan on spending much time in Pozzallo itself: it's an unprepossessing, semi-industrial port town). At low tide, brave the surf and walk out to the Isola dei Correnti at Portopalo, where the Ionian Sea meets the Strait of Sicily
  
  
• Eat fresh fish at Taverna La Cialoma in pretty Marzamemi, surrounded by the crumbling buildings of the ancient tuna fishery
  
  
• Walk through the nature reserves of Fiume Irminio and Vendicari, for bird-watching and unspoilt sandy beaches
  
  
• Hike along the dramatic limestone gorge of Cava d’Ispica and see the cave dwellings and churches of the Parco Forza near Ispica
  
  
• Go on a tasting tour of the chocolate shops in Modica, or come for the annual chocolate festival (in March/April or October/November; dates vary)
  
  
• Or visit the honey festival at Sortino, held every October

Activities on site or nearby include:

• Hiking
• Shopping / markets
• Wine tasting

Kids

Children are very welcome year round. We think the peaceful ambiance means parents of young children might feel self-conscious about the amount of noise they make. Extra beds and baby cots can be added to most rooms.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Teens (over 12)

Family friendly accommodation:

Both Suite categories can have up to two children sharing with parents on extra beds; the double rooms can take a baby cot or an extra bed.

Cots Available, Extra Beds Available

Distances:

• Airport: 50 minutes (Comiso) or 1/1.5 hours (Catania)
• Shops: 5 minutes

For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection

Location

Cambiocavallo is between the towns of Modica and Pozzallo, in southeast Sicily. It's 4km from the coast.

By Air
Fly to Comiso (50km away) or, if you are touring the whole of Sicily, into Catania (115km away) or Palermo (310km away). Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.

From the Airport
There are occasional buses to Pozzallo, but you'll probably want to hire a car for your stay (see below).

By Car
For car hiresee our car rental recommendations. From Catania it is about 2 hours by road to the hotel, following the SS115 via Siracusa and Noto.

If you're driving from southern mainland Italy, take the regular ferry from Villa San Giovanni to Messina (every 20 minutes, with a 20-minute sailing time) and then follow the A18 motorway south to Catania (155km / 1.5 hours) before picking up the SS115.

It is a little tricky to find so make sure you take our directions with you (provided automatically when you confirm a booking through i-escape).

More on getting to Sicily and getting around